Hi,
Thinking of getting a Honda EU1000i use to charge my trailer battery when drycamping. Is this going to be enough? I know most people want the bigger ones so they can run their AC, microwave etc., but I'm only looking for something that will charge my battery for now. If in the future I decide that I need to run the AC, I'll look into adding a bigger generator. Any thoughts on this? Also, I'm looking to get the one on sale at Camping World, ($699) does anyone know of any other places with lower prices on generators?

Hope everyone had a great 4th

Mia

I would look and see the requirements of your battery charger......but I can not think it would be more than 20 amps.... I do not know the wattage required but your documentation may tell you..

sillypup,

The Honda EU1000 will put out only 1000 watts but also has a 12 volt output as well. You can use this output to re-charge the 12 batts. Your amp. output would be about 8. Volts 120 x amps 8 = 960 watts, or not much power.

Look at this web site www.northerntool.com for more information and prices. I see this unit is same price at $699 with free shipping. I would also look under Google and see if prices are less.

Before you pay Camping World's prices for a generator shop around. Try places like Mayberrys.com, WiseSales, & Speedway and if you do a google search you will find many more that are alot cheaper than Camping World. You will also find that the 2000 is only a little more expensive than the 1000.

Hi Mia,

Kipor generators may be less expensive than Honda's and have a "cleaner" output. Look for Sinemaster or Kipor. They are also quieter than the Honda's. Have a look here:

http://www.kipornorthamerica.com/

Here is one on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Kipor-1000w-Generator-N...1QQcmdZViewItem

Item number 290135514399

Hi Mia,

I've been thinking more about a generator sized for you!

Basically each light you turn *on* in your RV will draw 2 amps. If you turn on four then your "draw" will be 8 amps per hour. This means the small 1000 watt generator if direct connected to the battery will need to run for one hour to replace the loss. (assuming *perfect* charging of the battery)

On the other hand if you connect the generator to the power point on your RV the converter will charge the batteries while supplying power for lighting, etc.

The worst side effect of incandescent lighting is heat. Those four bulbs generate *lots*.

A way around the heat and amperage draw is to get LED bulbs for your fixtures. The current technology draws 0.146 amps for a light that is designed to replace a 10 watt Halogen. They are a bit pricey--but then so is a small generator.

Going back to the four bulbs--now the draw is about 0.6 amps per hour. It would take many many hours exhaust your cabin battery at that level.

As I'm like you and love to "dry camp" I've replaced seven of my bulbs with led's. (I've not done them all for reasons of cost).

This is what I would buy today.

http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.asp?...amp;Item=SEN10W

As I mentioned before I do have nice generator--but if I did not wish to power my block heater in winter or AC in summer I'd go with these new technology bulbs--and forget about the generator altogether.

It seems to be that it would be easier and less expensive to go with the larger generator from the beginning rather than buying one, then buying another one.

With my 5ers, I did not have a generator at all. But, I did not dry camp except sometimes overnight.

Generator was really nice today. It is 111 in Bakersfield, CA and there was a power outage!!!

Jurhee

Why can't you just use the vehicle to charge the battery?
If it isn't wired to charge the battery it wouldn't be that hard to wire it up and would be cheaper than a generator. And if you have enough space on the trailer add a second battery or two.

On my converted bus I have three batterys for the motor (yes overkill but the room was there) and then three deep cycles for the house power with a 100 amp solenoid to connect them when driving to recharge. I haven't run the deep cycles down all the way yet but I can use the lights and a inverter to run the lcd tv and use the wheelchair lift for at least a couple days with out recharging the batterys.

Hi Wmah,

The cost of fuel for running a tow vehicle to charge a battery in the trailer would soon exceed the cost of a decent generator. I also get the impression that Mia wants to stay in non powered campgrounds for several days at a time. Most new trailers now come with *one* little dinky battery--not the three deep cycles that you have.

If one were not staying in place for several days at a time--then a generator may be overkill. I'd not be without mine--and I love my solar panels too!

Pianotuna, your'e right, one dinky battery is all I have, and I was told by the dealer that it would last approximately one day and one night while drycamping. And I guess the LP gas alarm uses the battery power and will drain it even if I don't use anything else.

Thanks for the great generator links, I think I've decided to go with the Kipor 2000 for now, and I can always add another generator later if I decide I need more power.

Jurhee, I can't even imagine 111 degree heat!!!! I guess I'll refrain from visiting Bakersfield until I have sufficient generator power!

Mia

Hi Mia,

I'd either get the 900 watt or the 2800 watt (Kipor 3500Ti). The two thousand (really 1600 watt) won't run your AC and the 900 may provide you with ample power for everything other than that. Perhaps find a friend who has a "kilowatt" measuring device and see what your trailer "draws".

BTW when you run your generator switch the fridge from propane to AC--it won't overload the generator and will save propane.

My reasons for choosing a 900 would be weight (31 lbs dry) and ease of starting (smaller motor). The 2000 weighs in at 49 lbs. Run time is the same, but fuel consumption will be less in the smaller unit.

If you still wish to get the 2000 then get IG2000P which allows you to add a 2nd generator later on to double your output.

All the models have an "eco switch" so will run at the speed required to power your devices--for example if the fridge cycles off--the generator will slow down--saving fuel (and noise).

The 900 watt unit runs at a higher rpm--but noise level is identical.

I have a 25 foot "dog run cable" which I fasten to my generator and to my RV with padlocks. It lets me get the generator a long way from the RV in those more or less empty campgrounds.

Get a six outlet current tap and plug it into the generator--then plug your RV into that. Here is a url of what I'm talking about:

http://images.doityourself.com/stry/plugmultipletap

Leave the current tap plugged in all the time.

I also plug in a night light to one of the current tap outlets--lets me "see" in the dark where to plug in the cable from the RV.

If there is room for a 2nd battery on your trailer--get one asap! It will give you much more "wiggle room" Lead acid batteries last much much longer when they are not discharged below 80% (hard to do with only one) and life is reduced dramatically if discharge cycle is to 50% of capacity.

The other alternative is to "kill" the battery that came with your trailer--and then get the two biggest meanest deep cycle batteries you can find at Walmart. (best price I could find).

On an entirely different note--I took my RV to Tempe, AZ last summer. At one point it was 123 F outside. I ran the roof air and the dash air at the same time to keep my cool, running my generator on a rack at the back of my RV.